Master Gardener: How to replace that not-so-green lawn

By Rebecca Jepsen
for the Mercury News
Posted: 11/13/2009 12:00:00 AM PST
Updated: 11/13/2009 12:43:52 PM PST

Conserving water is becoming increasingly important as we enter our fourth year of drought in Santa Clara County.
There is also a lot of buzz about water-wise gardening, xeriscaping and environmental responsibility. According to Kevin Galvin, senior water conservation specialist with the Santa Clara Valley Water District, more than half of our residential water is used on landscaping, and the runoff of toxic chemicals and fertilizers into our water system is very high.
We Americans love our lawns, and although that perfectly mowed, lush green lawn is the epitome of beauty for many homeowners, it has many inherent costs. We spend money to purchase and maintain our mowers, edgers and blowers, not to mention the fuel required to run them. The environmental cost of toxic emissions emitted by the equipment also needs to be considered.
According to the Save20 gallons.org Web site, we can save 20 gallons of water a day by replacing just 1,000 square feet of lawn with better, water-wise options.
Fall is the best time to replace your lawn, but before you embark on removing your lawn, it's helpful to know what you are working with. Some lawns are easier to get rid of than others.
Sheet mulching, or smothering, the lawn is effective for most types of turf. Apply a layer of cardboard or newspaper over your lawn (being sure to generously overlap the edges) and cover with a three-to-four-inch layer of mulch.
If, like many homeowners, you have Bermuda grass, you may need to take more drastic measures. Use a sod cutter, which will cut the Bermuda grass roots at approximately three inches or more, flip the cut sections over to let them die off. You may need to sod cut repeatedly to completely eradicate Bermuda grass.
John Greenlee, a California nurseryman and an expert on ornamental grasses and sedges, says using a "grow and kill" cycle is the most effective way to get rid of existing turf, especially Bermuda grass. Carefully apply Round-up (per instructions) on your healthy lawn, cut all water for a period of one to two weeks. Reapply water and wait for new growth, repeat previous step. You may need to repeat the cycle two or three times, but Greenlee says this is the most efficient method.
There are many water-wise, low maintenance, and beautiful replacement options to consider.
Sedge lawns
Sedge lawns most closely resemble normal turf lawns. With proper selection and planting, a sedge lawn will function much like a traditional lawn, but with a lot less water and mowing. Sedges, part of the Carex genus, come in a variety of sizes from miniature to several feet tall. They can be used in sun or shade and in almost every climate zone.
An excellent option for the Bay Area is the California meadow sedge (Carex pansa). It is a fast-growing variety with dark green foliage that will grow to only about 4 to 6 inches if left unmowed. It can be planted in either full sun or part shade. Plugs can be planted directly into your sheet mulch. Cut holes 6 to 12 inches on center, loosen the roots of the plugs, and add a couple of handfuls of soil (planting mix or top soil) as you go.
With proper irrigation — once a week near the coast; more often in hot climates — your new lawn should fill in within a few months. Once established, it will need to be mowed only about three times per year. However, make sure the blades on your mower are very sharp so you don't damage the plant by fraying its edges.
For shady areas, try Texas sedge (Carex texensis). If you are planting under an oak, leave a 5-to-10-foot radius unplanted to avoid disturbing the root zone of the tree.
Eco-lawns
Ecology lawns or eco-lawns can be planted from seed. They are usually a mixture of native and non-native grasses, herbs and flowers. The exact mix will vary depending on supplier and planting conditions. Eco-lawns grow about four times more slowly than normal turf lawn and therefore require only one-quarter the amount of mowing. Because of their extremely long root system, they need very little water once established and no fertilizer.
Meadow lawns
Meadow lawns not only provide visual diversity year-round, they can also provide much needed habitat for birds, butterflies, bees and bugs. You can create a meadow lawn by planting a mix of native grasses and fescues, yarrow and other wildflowers. They can be planted from seed or plugs. It's important to weed out invasive grasses such as wild oat, Italian rye and foxtails while the meadow gets established. Shady options include: California Fescue (Festuca californica) with wildflowers such as Douglas Iris (Iris douglasiana), Western Hound's Tongue (Cynglossum grande), Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), California poppy and Sky Lupines (Lupinus nanus).
Herb lawns
For a nice-smelling alternative, try planting an herb lawn. Before selecting a variety to use, it's important to consider your planting conditions. For sunny areas try Roman Chamomile, yarrow or Golden or Variegated Oregano. Shade-loving options include Sweet Woodruff or Yerba Buena, which grows naturally under oaks.
Herb lawns can't take heavy foot traffic, so you may want to include steppingstones or create a pathway. Periodic hand-weeding is recommended. Most herb lawns don't need to be mowed; however, you may want to weed-whack the yarrow periodically.
Master Gardener Gretchen Zane contributed to this report. The Santa Clara County Master Gardener Program is a volunteer organization dedicated to providing research-based gardening information to home gardeners. Have a question? Call the hot line, 408-282-3105, from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Or visit the Master Gardeners Web site at www.mastergardeners.org.
GETTING STARTED

Ripping out your entire yard may not be possible or practical; start with a section on your lawn or landscape that is in need of repair and "grow" from there. You may want to experiment with a few varieties to see what you like and what will grow well in your specific environment.
Most of the varieties listed here can be found at Bay Area nurseries: Native Revival (www.nativerevival.com); East Bay Wilds (www.eastbaywilds.com); Rana Creek Nursery (www.ranacreeknursery.com); or online at Greenlee Nursery (www.greenleenursurey.com) or Bay Natives (www.bay
natives.com).
To find out about more ways to save water or to learn about the Landscape Rebate Program, contact the Santa Clara Valley Water District hot line at 408-265-2607, or check www.valleywater.org.

Master Gardeners

Now that the growing season is over and all of our beds are cleaned up, the plants are mulched, protected and tucked in for the winter, and the irrigation has been blown out, and all of our tools are oiled and hung on their hooks, and the lawn mower and weed eater are winterized and slumbering in the shed -- it's time to think back over last year's efforts and spend a little time reveling in and feeling gratitude for the tremendous blessings that our gardens bring.

In the garden, we function within a system that brings a pure, natural experience. We put our energy into the soil along with our hopes, dreams and a measure of faith that the sun will rise and call the seedling out of the ground, that the rain and snow will provide water, and that the beautiful earth will give sustenance to the seeds we sow.

There is a supreme sweetness in the harvest, whether it be beautiful flowers that please our senses or wholesome sustaining food, when that harvest is full of the energy of the gardener. No rose is so satisfying as the one watched and nurtured from a bud, no lettuce is so crisp and sweet as the leaf that is coaxed from the ground and watered with care.

Life lessons are learned in the garden; patience, diligence, renewal, faithfulness, dependability and hope. Practical knowledge is gained in the garden: when to plant, what to plant, how to feed the soil. And gardening gives us something that is in short supply in our fast-paced world: time to think. We all need time to think and sort out life's issues and challenges. Time in the garden is physically, mentally and spiritually productive.



The generosity of nature teaches us to share with and serve those around us. It is easy to give generously when we reap such a bountiful harvest. It takes little extra time and energy to plant and tend a few extra plants that will go to homeless shelters or food banks or friends and family that we love. Children learn lessons of gratitude and generosity when they participate in family acts of service.

Gardening can be a relationship building activity. Working together as a family in the garden can reinforce bonds and teach character principles. Time to talk to and teach our children can be a rare commodity, making time together in the garden priceless. Many an avid gardener recalls being introduced to the joys of gardening by a beloved grandparent, who pressed a few pumpkin seeds into a chubby little hand and then helped dig a hole. Neighbors become friends while visiting over the garden fence sharing tips and starts.

Then, as if all of these overflowing blessings are not enough, the garden gives to us also the healthy food our bodies need to thrive; vegetables and fruits that sustain us and delight our appetites. What candy has ever been produced that does not hang its simple-sugar head when faced with a raspberry -- plump and juicy with a sweet-tart loveliness that makes us close our eyes and smack our lips. All that and antioxidants, too. Health for our bodies is truly a blessing of the harvest.



Few gardening years pass without challenges. Insects and disease, late frosts, strong winds, hail, early frosts -- what gardener has not experienced these to some measure? Every experience, whether positive or negative, teaches us more about the world and life and ourselves.
YAKIMA HERALD-REPUBLIC

The season of Thanksgiving that we celebrate at this time of the year was born in the garden and in the fields. It grew out of the gratitude a group of people felt for the harvest they knew would sustain them. Today, most of us do not have to depend on our gardens to sustain life -- but time in the garden will always sustain us in other ways as we engage in its rhythmic, seasonal dance.



* Washington State University Extension Master Gardener Program is an organization of trained volunteers dedicated to horticulture and community service. Questions about gardening, landscaping or the program may be directed toward the Master Gardener Clinic by calling 509-574-1600 or visiting the WSU Extension office at 104 N. First St. in Yakima. Classes begin after the first of the year; new volunteers are welcome.

Gardening: Pavement, other hardscape can be 'landscaped' using plants in pots

By Tony Tomeo

for Los Gatos Weekly-Times

Posted: 11/09/2009 03:27:14 PM PST

Updated: 11/09/2009 03:27:15 PM PST

In my own garden, I prefer to grow everything in the ground. Pots and planters simply require a little more attention than I want to give them. To me, pots should be reserved mostly for houseplants and bonsai, which are both very different topics from potted plants in the garden. However, I have grown many potted plants in the garden for various reasons.

The main reason in the garden of my former residence is that there was so much pavement. It was all useful pavement, such as driveways and patio space, so none of it should have been removed. Yet, the portions of the large driveway that were not in use at the time were "landscaped" with large plants in large nursery cans. Corners of the patio were similarly landscaped, with nothing actually in the ground. The black vinyl cans were obscured and shaded (to keep them cool) by common iceplant that spilled out onto the pavement.

Each group of potted plants looked landscaped, but could be moved out of the way if more paved area was needed. I used large yuccas, dracaenas, New Zealand flax, agaves, cacti and some palms, including a 15-foot windmill palm, because they happened to be available, and actually suited the style of the "landscape."

This technique can be done with all sorts of plants in more appealing pots and containers that do not need to be obscured. Thin plastic pots or metallic planters that get warm from direct exposure to sunlight may be more comfortable to the plants within if at least partially shaded by overhanging foliage toward the south and west.

Such a landscape does not need to be very elaborate to be effective. Sometimes, only a few potted plants are enough to dress up a large patio, and can also be moved out of the way for entertaining. Potted plants can also be appealing on porches or balconies where there is no exposed soil.

There are other advantages to the portability of potted plants. Those that are sensitive to frost, such as banana trees and jade plants, can be moved to sheltered areas when the weather gets too cool. Plants like hydrangeas and orchids can be moved to more prominent locations while they are in bloom, and then moved out of the way while they are dormant or simply not blooming.

Potted small trees like fullmoon maple, Japanese maple, vine maple, citrus, sweet bay and some podocarpus have appealing form, and the maples also have intricate foliar texture. Shrubs like aucuba, escallonia, boxwood, privet, tobira and holly provide more substance. Shrubby bougainvilleas, angel's trumpet, camellia and hydrangea produce colorful flowers. Japanese aralia and Heavenly bamboo display boldly interesting foliar texture.

Tree of the Week: Lemon Bottlebrush Like junipers, ivies, eucalypti and many other plants that were too common in the past, lemon bottlebrush, Callistemon citrinus, has lost popularity over the years, and now seems to be known for its bad qualities.

I sometimes find its abundant pollen and the lemony aroma of its foliage to be objectionable, even though I am not quite convinced that it smells like lemons, but I also appreciate its attributes. Hummingbirds appreciate the nectar provided by its bright red flowers that bloom in random phases at any time of year. Other birds appreciate its shaggy bark that they use to build nests.

Once established, lemon bottlebrush does not need much attention. It wastes no time growing into a small tree or large shrub more than 10 feet tall and wide. As a tree, it can be staked and pruned to develop a single straight trunk, or allowed to develop multiple sculptural trunks. Shearing prevents bloom, but otherwise does not hurt lemon bottlebrush.

Lemon bottlebrush gets its name from its cylindrical flower clusters that look like bottlebrushes. Each cluster is about 3 to 5 inches long, and contains many densely arranged staminate flowers. (Staminate flowers have prominent stamens, but not petals.) Bronzy and slightly fuzzy new leaves develop at the ends of the flower clusters, and get to be about 2 to 3 inches long and olive green as they mature. Modern varieties with purplish or pink flowers are smaller and denser than the traditional lemon bottlebrush that blooms bright red.

Contact Tony Tomeo or look for specialized gardening information and previous columns at www.AskTonyTheGardener.com.