Lawn Mower

How Much Lawn Fertilizer Does My Yard Need?

2012-01-10T22:17:00.000-08:00

The good news is you can measure the width and depth of your lawn, multiply the width by the depth, subtract the square footage of your house and driveway and you have the approximate size of your yard. Armed with this information you are ready to go shopping for what is known as turf fertilizer or lawn care fertilizer.

Don't sweat the details. Fertilizing and grass fertilizer are not rocket science. You just need an approximate size of your lawn. As an example, your yard is about 110 feet deep and 150 feet wide. Multiply those numbers (110X150) and you get 16,500 square feet. If you house is about 1800 square feet and your driveway is about 1700 square feet you have 3500 square feet (1800+1700) not in grass. Subtract the 3500 from the 16,500 and you have approximately 13,000 square feet in grass.

When you go shopping for fertilizer, don't get confused about green fertilizer or organic lawn fertilizer or organic grass fertilizer or organic liquid fertilizer. You will probably end up with Scotts lawn fertilizer or Lowes lawn fertilizer or Home Depot lawn fertilizer or the brand from your local lawn and garden store. You will find it comes in bags that treat 5,000 or 10,000 or 15,000 square feet. Since you have 13,000 square feet in grass, get enough fertilizer to treat 15,000 square feet. It is better to have a little extra (put it on your yard - it won't hurt it) than to run out and have part of your lawn looking nice and the other part untreated and ugly.

If you are a perfectionist, you can call your local university extension office and send them a soil sample and they will tell you what nutrients your lawn needs. This is probably not necessary. Buy the bags Scotts or your local lawn and garden supply store recommends and put it on. Years and years of experience on millions of lawns says you'll be just fine.

Do My Lawn Mower Blades Need To Be Sharpened?

Keep in mind a lawn mower blade is suppose to cut your grass, not beat it into submission. A sharp blade is critical for the appearance of your yard and the performance of your lawn mower. Sharpness really affects the performance of a mulching lawn mower blade.

If you're a mulcher, take a look at a gator lawn mower blade. They have a unique design that allows the grass to stay trapped in the mowing deck longer and therefore get cut multiple times. The result is superior mulching and therefore a lawn with fewer noticeable clippings sitting on top of your yard. You can get a gator lawn mower blade that is an exact replacement for your John Deere lawn mower blade, your Toro lawn mower blade, etc.

Our Buy Lawn Mower Parts link is designed to help you find replacement lawn mower blades and other lawn mower parts. We suggest you have 2 sets of blades so one can be on your lawn mower while the other gets sharpened.

http://www.bestratedlawnmowers.com

2010-05-22T22:11:00.000-07:00

Tips For Maintaining Petrol Lawn Mowers

By Julia Vallessi

Many people that buy petrol lawn mowers do not realize that they need to do a bit more than change the oil and make sure the blade is in good condition. In particular, you should always make sure that you change or clean the spark plug on a regular basis. This will also give you an opportunity to check for cracks in the wire casing, as well as help you understand the overall condition of the engine.

If you have ever performed routine maintenance on an auto mobile engine, then you may realize that certain types of corrosion or discolouration on the spark plugs can serve as vital indicators about engine wear. For example, if the tip of the plug has black, oily reside on it, then you know that the engine is burning oil. While a lawn mower engine is much smaller and less complicated than an auto mobile engine, it still works on the same principles. Therefore, when it comes to maintaining petrol lawn mowers, you can look at spark plugs in order to estimate how long the mower will last.

During the process of maintaining petrol lawnmowers, you should also make it a point to change the air filter. Unfortunately, most people simply leave the filter in place for the life of the mower. Needless to say, when the filter gets clogged, it will deprive the engine of air, and cause the engine to die out more. Chances are, you would be amazed at how much better your lawn mower will perform when you change this filter on a regular basis.

Visit this site to check out more information about petrol lawn mowers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Julia_Vallessi

Merely The Greatest Of All Riding Lawn Mowers

2010-02-06T22:34:00.000-08:00

Riding lawn mowers are hotter than ever before. The reason is that they make the chore of mowing the lawn more sufferable than previously. If you have a big lawn or live in a very warm or damp climate walking back and forth across the grass is just not all that pleasurable. When you have a riding lawn mower you suddenly do not need to work so hard and it's something that you can put up with. There are a lot of different riding lawn mowers on the market with some of the better ones being the John Deere Riding lawn mowers. John Deere has long been a pace-setter in the grass mowers market and their riding lawn mowers aren't any different.

John Deere riding lawn mowers line has a few different offerings. This ensures that there is a lawn mower for virtually every consumer. Of the home mowers you will find that the x-300 series is a good option. When you buy the John Deere riding lawn mowers from the x-300 series you'll get a mower that includes a sturdy welded steel frame, solid iron front axels, a four wheel steer design, twin touch automated transmission, and a 4 year guarantee. This is a great mower that may be used even in yards with difficulties like trees, bushes, shrubs, and walkways.

Of the John Deere riding lawn mowers there's also the X500 Multi Terrain mower. This mower is preferable for those that have a large amount of landscaping instead of open fields and the like. This mower features hydraulic power steering, liquid cooled engine, foot operated traction help, and a 4 year guarantee. This is just a very well built riding mower.

Another of the John Deere riding lawn mowers that has received much attention is the X700 series. The X700 series is a great choice as if features liquid cooled gas and diesel engines, your decision. It also features four wheel steering with full time all wheel drive. Power steering and cruise control are also appealing features, as is the 4 year guarantee that guarantees your satisfaction with the product.

As you can see, there are a lot of great options for you to select from. Of course, these are just the residential John Deere riding lawn mowers so if you're looking for something more commercial you will find a larger selection of items to choose from. Fortunately , all the mowers come in your choice of deck size so you can truly customize the lawn mower as you think acceptable.

Just The Best Lawn Mower Your Money Can Buy Read more: http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Just-The-Best-Lawn-Mower-Your-Money-Can-Buy/934236#ixzz0d

2010-01-27T16:01:00.000-08:00

By: Ray Jennings

Having the right lawn mower really can make a big difference in the resources you spend cutting your lawn. No one truly is looking forward to mowing their grass, but when you have the right lawn mower it can be a chore that you do not mind getting out of the way. While there are a large amount of different lawn mower options on the market today, John Deere lawn mowers have for ages been one of the favourite mowers on the market. The reason for this is that they are well made and have been proven to be one of the must trusted and long lasting on the market.

Why should you purchase John Deere lawn mowers? The reason is dissimilar for everybody, but the bottom line is a lawn mower should be an investment. Lawn mowers are never inexpensive, but you need to look at it as an investment. Rather than attempting to spend as little as possible , you must consider spending what you need to spend to get all the features that you need on the lawn mower that is going to last you decades if it is well taken care of. When you buy John Deere lawn mowers you might spend more than your garden center special, but it is going to last you a lot longer, mowing your grass to perfection every time.

John Deere lawn mowers are offered in several alternative types. You can choose the basic models that may require that you push them but will cut the grass to perfection each time. You can choose those having a bigger motor and will make the grass cutting process easier. Self propelled mowers are always popular and are a great choice for those that have a bigger budget when purchasing John Deere lawn mowers.

Last but not least, there are the riding mowers that John Deere has become awfully known for. As you can see, there's a lot for you to select from when you're buying John Deere lawn mowers. While you may be excited to shop for and buy John Deere lawn mowers you must take your time and do a bit of research. Research is vital when you are shopping for any lawn mower.

Because your John Deere will be an investment you need to look into all of your options and get the mower that fits all your needs . If you shop carefully and set a budget you'll be bound to buy a mower which will fulfill your highest expectancies for years yet to come.

Read more: http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Just-The-Best-Lawn-Mower-Your-Money-Can-Buy/934236#ixzz0drPzS73m
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution No Derivatives

How to Start a Push Lawn Mower

2010-01-22T17:02:00.000-08:00

Steps

1
Make sure you have enough motor oil in your mower. Usually there is a cap on top of the mower body, smaller than the gas cap, that says "oil" or something similar. The cap will probably have an oil gauge attached, so check the oil as you would in a car, that is, judge the level of oil on the gauge against the depth of the reservoir (the length of the gauge).
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2
Make sure you have enough gasoline. There should be a clearly labeled cap on the gas tank. If you open it, you should be able to look down into the tank and see the approximate level. Add more (preferably using a funnel) if needed.
3
Locate the prime button, usually red or black, a squishy button somewhere on the mower's body. Push it between 3 and 4 times in order to force the gasoline into the lines.
4
You may need to pull and hold a starting lever (a safety feature), or the lawnmower will not start no matter what you do.
5
Brace your arm holding the starting lever, and pull upward on the pull cord, which you should find on top of the mower body. You may have to do this several times before the motor starts up.
6
If you are still unable to get your mower started, try the lawnmower inspection and troubleshooting steps at How to Repair a Lawnmower.

My Lawn Mower Tips

2010-01-12T00:21:00.000-08:00

How Much Lawn Fertilizer Does My Yard Need?

Do My Lawn Mower Blades Need To Be Sharpened?

Our Buy Lawn Mower Parts link is designed to help you find replacement lawn mower blades and other lawn mower parts. We suggest you have 2 sets of

Make Your Grass Thicker

The good news is grass that is well fed and watered and cut will get thicker, even filling in bare spots in your lawn.

The bad news is weeds fill in bare spots faster than grass.

So there are 3 important steps in making your grass thicker. The first thing to do is get those weeds out of your yard. You can apply weed killer separately or as part of a fertilizer treatment. You can apply it as a dry granular powder or as a liquid.

Liquid is best. Why? Because the weed killing mechanism is for the weed killer to be absorbed thru the leaves into the plant and down into the roots. The result is a weed, dead all the way thru and it will not regrow. A dry weed killer must be applied to a wet weed. Forget it – it’s too much work, hit and miss with less than satisfactory results. Use the liquid weed killer.

Now that you have the weeds out of the way, there is a place for the grass to grow. This is the place for step 2 – feed, water and cut your grass to make it healthy. Healthy grass will spread and fill in the bare spots. If the bare spots are too large, speed up the process and go to step 3 by planting grass seed.

You are probably wondering… what is the perfect patch grass seed? It depends on your area and its climate. If you’re in the hot south, zoysia grass seed is good. If you are in a dry area and you are not a waterer, buy drought resistant grass seed. You can get advice on buying grass seed specific to your area by looking for grass seed online (try our Google search below) or by checking at your local lawn and garden supply store. The local store will have lawn grass seeds (such as Scott grass seed) formulated for your area. The package will have information and be able to answer all your questions such as grass seed rate, grass seed when, grass seed how to, etc.

2010 Gardening Calendar

2010-01-01T16:15:00.000-08:00

BY TERRY BRITE DELVALLE

STORY UPDATED AT 4:13 PM ON THURSDAY, DEC. 31, 2009

There’s never a time of year in Northeast Florida or Southeast Georgia when you can ignore what’s going on at ground level. Here’s a whole year’s worth of advice on keeping your lawn and garden happy and healthy.

January

• Plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and hyacinths. (For bulbs such as these to bloom in Northeast Florida and Southeast Georgia, they must be chilled in the refrigerator. See the November listing for instructions.)

• Begin transplanting plants in the landscape, keeping them out of the ground as short a time as possible. Water is the difference between success and failure. Keep the plant moist but not soaking wet. Do not fertilize plants when they are transplanted. Do not prune except to remove diseased or dead material.

• Plant bare root and balled and burlap-wrapped plants. Be sure to keep them well watered.

• Avoid pruning spring-blooming plants such as dogwoods, redbuds, azaleas, spirea and fringe trees. Prune dormant shade and fruit trees. Research shows pruning paint has no effect on insect or disease attack, so using it is not recommended.

• Use a dormant oil spray on dormant fruit trees and woody ornamentals that are having scale problems. Follow label directions, because oil sprays should not be used on some plants.

• Roses can be pruned in late January. Remove leaves on ground and strip leaves from plant to reduce disease problems.

• If a hard freeze is predicted, water lawn and ornamental plants 24 to 48 hours before the freeze to improve cold protection. Do not attempt the commercial method to safeguard plants during the freeze that requires a continuous, controlled flow of water to ice down plants for cold protection. A layer of ice can give off heat, but if not precisely controlled, could seriously damage plants and lawn. Bank citrus with coarse builder’s sand about 15 inches up the trunk to protect the graft union. Harvest ripe citrus if temperatures will drop below 28 degrees for four or more hours.

• Plant seeds indoors or in a greenhouse for March plantings of peppers and tomatoes. Be sure to plant varieties that are adapted to our region. Under optimum conditions, it takes four to five weeks to grow small transplants.

• In dry weather, lawns and woody ornamental plants should be watered. Lawns need about 3/4 inch of water every 10 to 14 days. Water drought-tolerant woody plants every three weeks at the same rate if there’s no rainfall.

February

• Finish transplanting by mid-February. Warm spring weather may make late transplanting unsuccessful because roots are not present to absorb the water demanded by the top of the plant. Keep transplanted plants well watered.

• Prune roses if that hasn’t already been done. Most rose specialists prefer February pruning. Strip leaves from roses if plants are not dormant. Pruning in February delays the first buds but will produce healthier, more attractive plants later this year.

• Fertilize fruit trees, young ornamental trees and shrubs (except spring-flowering shrubs, such as azaleas) in mid-February. Young shrubs and trees: Use a fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium (first and third numbers) and phosphorous is 2 or less (middle number) If using a 15-0-15 that contains 50 percent or more slow-release nitrogen, apply 2 ounces or 4 tablespoons per 3-foot plant. If a quick-release fertilizer is used, use half the amount. Ornamental trees that have been in the landscape for three years or more usually get enough fertilizer from adjacent lawn and shrub areas. Spread the fertilizer under the branches and water it into the soil. Punching holes in the ground around the tree to feed the roots only wastes fertilizer by placing it deeper than the feeder roots that absorb most of the nutrients. Fruit trees: Use 6-6-6 or 8-8-8 fertilizer at a rate of 1 to 2 pounds of fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter measured 4 feet above the ground.

• Prune dormant grapes. The method depends on the type of grape (muscadine or bunch). For specific information, contact a county extension office.

• Prepare the spring garden for planting by spading the ground at least two weeks before planting to give grass and weeds time to rot before seeds are planted.

• Put raked leaves and grass clippings in a compost pile. As they rot, they make an excellent organic material to add to the soil when planting vegetables and some ornamental plants.

• February is the month to apply pre-emergence herbicides to control weeds such as sandspurs and goosegrass. These applications should coincide with the blooming of azaleas and dogwoods. Exact timing depends on soil temperature. If we are having normal winter weather, apply in mid-February to early March. Herbicides should not be applied unless a serious weed problem is present. Maintaining a healthy lawn is the best weed control program.

March

• Begin a fertilizer program once lawn starts growing, not before. For a moderate maintenance plan for your St. Augustine lawn, fertilize two to four times per year, starting in March or April with the last application in September. If you have another lawn type, call your extension office for information. If using a water soluble fertilizer, apply at the rate of 1/2 pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If fertilizer contains 30 percent or more slow-release nitrogen, apply up to 1 pound per 1,000 square feet actual nitrogen. Nitrogen is indicated by the first number in the three-part number on fertilizer labels. To select a good fertilizer, refer to the guidelines provided in February listing for trees and shrubs. In addition to magnesium, make sure the fertilizer also contains iron (Fe). Apply 1/4 inch water after fertilizer application. (See September for limits on fertilizer amounts.)

• Rake dead grass to allow new grass to grow. This increases the effectiveness of fertilizers and pesticides applied to the lawn.

• Prune and fertilize azaleas as soon as they finish blooming. Use an acid fertilizer, such as azalea-camellia-gardenia special, and follow label directions.

• Transplant azaleas after they finish blooming.

• Prune any cold weather-damaged plants after new growth appears. If the plant is pruned before new growth begins, too much may be removed, and it will take longer to recover.

• Begin heavy pruning of hedges anytime after mid-March. To encourage bushy growth, prune just prior to bud swell. To retard growth, prune just after growth flush, once leaves have fully expanded.

• Start planting tender annuals and vegetables. Be prepared to protect these plants from late-season frost. Use straw or newspaper. Cover with plastic for hard-freeze protection.

• Plant poinsettias in the landscape from late March to early April. Cut back plant to within 12 to 16 inches of ground level. Pinch back new growth every four weeks until September. Don’t plant near a light that will be on at night. Fertilize monthly from May to September.

• Fertilize palms every two months starting in March and continuing through September. Use a 8N-2P-12K-4 Mg ratio fertilizer that contains micronutrients and follow label directions. The nitrogen (N), potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg) in the fertilizer should be in controlled-release form. Micronutrients include 1 percent to 2 percent iron (Fe), 1 percent to 2 percent manganese (Mn) and trace amounts of copper (Cu) and boron (B). Broadcast 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet under canopy of palms but keep away from the trunk area.

• Starting the second Sunday in March, irrigation is allowed two times per week if needed. (See April for details.)

April

• Repair dead or damaged spots in the lawn with sod, plugs or seedlings. Keep lawn watered if the weather is dry. To establish a new lawn, water frequently but lightly for the first two weeks. Then, gradually decrease the frequency and increase the length of irrigation. Do not overwater or lawn will develop disease problems.

• This also is the month to begin mowing lawns in Northeast Florida and Southeast Georgia. Grass mowed too low has a short root system and is more easily damaged during dry weather. It’s also weaker and more likely to have serious weed problems. As a rule of thumb, St. Augustine grass should be mowed at 1.5 to 2.5 inches (dwarf varieties) and 3 to 4 inches (standard varieties), Bahia at 3 to 4 inches, zoysia at 1 to 3 inches, and centipede at 1 to 2 inches.

• Sand may be applied to uneven areas of a lawn for leveling. The sand should not be more than 1 inch thick, or it may damage the lawn.

• Begin watching roses for black spot fungus disease, small black spots on the leaves that quickly worsen. Control it by spraying every seven to 10 days with a fungicide.

• If the weather is dry, water your lawn. Apply approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water at each watering as needed. Water only when blades fold. The water should be applied no more than two times per week. The best time is early in the morning, before temperatures rise and water evaporates in the air. There are many variables on water needs because of differences in soil type, shade and other factors. Follow water guidelines established by SJRWMD. Residences with odd-numbered addresses or no address can water on Wednesday and Saturday; even-numbered addresses can water on Thursday and Sunday; and non-residential can water on Tuesday and Friday. To detect dryness in woody plants, pay special attention to azaleas. When their leaves droop, it’s an indication that soil is drying out, and they need watering. Water woody plants no more than once per week.

• Recycle grass clippings by not catching them when the lawn is mowed. Removing the clippings carries off fertilizer that has been applied to the lawn. Grass clippings don’t cause thatch to build up if only the top third of grass is removed when mowing. Almost all yard trash can be used as mulch or in a compost pile.

• Divide overcrowded fall flowering perennials and bulbs.

May

• For the moderate lawn-maintenance plan, fertilize lawn with 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Nitrogen fertilizers include ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate and urea. Be sure to apply 1/2 inch water after fertilization or the lawn may be burned.

• Begin watching for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine lawns. The damage usually occurs in sunny locations near the street, sidewalk or driveway. The grass dies in patches and turns straw brown. Damaged areas do not recover and must be plugged or sodded. Treat damaged areas and a 10 to 15 foot buffer area with an approved insecticide (Bifenthrin or clothiandin,) or ask a pest control company to treat them.

• Keep ripening vegetables harvested to lengthen the time the plants produce.

• If the weather is dry, water the lawn as allowed by watering restrictions applying 3/4 inch per application.

• Fertilize palms. (See March listing.)

• Peaches, nectarines and plums begin ripening in late May. Harvest them as soon as they mature — before squirrels and birds get them.

• Using a coring-type aerator, aerate the lawn to allow better drainage, improve grass root growth and reduce thatch build-up. Allow the cores to dry, and then mow them to scatter the soil back over the grass. Caution: Aeration may allow more weeds to grow in the lawn.

• Mole crickets are a problem lawn pest in Northeast Florida and Southeast Georgia. If a problem, control them when mole crickets are small. Water the lawn before applying an insecticide. Use Bifentrin, Cyfluthrin, Fipronil, Imadacloprid Lambda-cyhalothrin or Permethrin. Another option is to introduce a nematode (Steinernema scapterisci) that won’t harm plants.

June

• Watch for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine lawns. (See May listing.)

• Blueberries begin ripening about June 1.

• Continue harvesting vegetables as soon as they ripen.

• Check mulch around ornamental plants to be sure it’s 2 to 3 inches thick, and add mulch as needed to help keep weeds down and conserve water. Keep mulch 1 to 2 inches away from trunk or stem.

• Remove old blooms and flower spikes from annuals. This is called “dead heading” and makes the flowers bloom longer. Fertilize monthly except for marigolds and periwinkles.

• Those who plan to treat for mole crickets and did not do it in May should apply the product by mid-June. (See May listing.)

July

• For a moderate lawn maintenance plan, apply iron to encourage greening. Use ferrous sulfate (2 ounces in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet) or a chelated iron source.

• If mole crickets are damaging the lawn, begin applying mole cricket bait (Bifenthrin). Water before you apply the bait. Baits should be applied late in the afternoon when there is no chance of rain. When watering, don’t allow baits to soak into the soil, because water destroys the product.

• Watch for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine lawns. (See May listing.)

• Watch annuals, pyracantha and junipers for spider mite damage. These small pests are almost invisible and feed on plants by sucking juice out of the leaves. They generally live on the underside of leaves, and when the population gets large, there’s often a webbing material going from leaf to leaf. They reproduce quickly and can go from egg stage to egg-laying adult stage in seven days. If plants are being damaged, spray with horticultural oil, Conserve, or insecticidal soap two to three times, seven days apart.

• Keep lawn mower blades sharp. This reduces disease problems and gives the lawn a neater look when it is cut.

• People living at the Beaches should watch for cabbage palm caterpillars in late July. They drop out of palms in large numbers and try to find a place to make cocoons. They usually make cocoons out of old palm fronds and can stain siding and damage lawn furniture, doormats and other fibrous materials. If they get indoors, they can damage drapes, carpet and upholstery. To control, spray palms with Dipel or Sevin and be sure the house is sealed tightly to keep them out.

• Remove seed heads and old flower spikes from crape myrtles. This will encourage them to put out more blooms.

August

• Watch for sod webworm and army worm damage. These are lawn caterpillars that feed on grasses and usually are a problem on Bermuda and St. Augustine lawns. They will attack all types of lawns if the population is high enough. The grass will look as if it has been mowed very low. Treat damaged areas with an approved insecticide. It may not be necessary to treat your whole lawn for the worms. Spot-treating reduces the amount of insecticide being applied to the environment.

• If mole crickets are damaging the lawn, apply mole cricket bait. (See July listing.)

• Watch for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine lawns. (See May listing.)

• Begin planting a fall garden of tender vegetables such as beans, corn, cucumbers, peppers, pumpkin, squash, tomatoes and watermelon in early August.

September

• Make the fall fertilizer application to the lawn in mid- to late September. Use a complete fertilizer. Use a fertilizer that has at least 30 percent or more slow-release nitrogen so all the nitrogen is not leached following a heavy rain. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Based on the Florida Urban Turf Rule, do not exceed 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application or 4 pounds of nitrogen for the year. Also in that rule, do not exceed 0.25 pound phosphorous per application and 0.5 pound per year unless a soil test shows additional phosphorous is needed.

• If mole crickets are damaging your lawn, apply mole cricket bait (last chance).

• Watch for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine laws. (See May listing.)

• Watch for sod webworms and army worm damage in lawns. (See August listing.)

• Watch for brown patch fungus disease, which attacks lawns when the weather is cool and wet. It is most commonly found in St. Augustine and zoysia lawns. The grass dies in roughly circular areas that may be 5 to 6 feet in diameter. In St. Augustine grass, the leaf blades rot where they attach to the runners. Apply an approved lawn fungicide according to label directions.

• Fertilize shrubs and young trees for maximum growth and cold hardiness. (See February listing.)

• Fertilize palms. (See March listing.)

October

• If winter weeds were a problem last year, apply a pre-emergence herbicide to the lawn in early October. Be sure the herbicide is safe for the type of grass in your lawn. Read and follow all label directions. Lawns treated with pre-emergence herbicides cannot be over-seeded with rye grass, because the herbicide will stop the rye grass seed from germinating.

• Watch for brown patch fungus disease in lawns. (See September listing.)

• Watch for chinch bug damage in St. Augustine lawns if the weather stays hot. (See May listing.)

• Lawns may be over-seeded with rye grass for a green lawn during winter. Mow the lawn closer than normal to allow the seed to come in contact with the soil. Spread the seed at a rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn, and water the lawn briefly for five to 10 minutes twice a day until the seed has come up.

• Watch for sod webworm and army worm damage in lawns. (See August listing.)

• Begin planting strawberries in mid to late October. In Northeast Florida and Southeast Georgia, they grow through the winter and produce berries in the spring.

• To get a Christmas cactus or a poinsettia to bloom for Christmas, be sure it is not getting light at night. Starting about Oct. 1, put the plant in a dark area that receives no light from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. This is how the plant knows when to set its flower buds. Keep putting it in the dark at night for one month for the cactus, six to eight weeks for the poinsettia. Don’t leave plants in the dark 24 hours at a time. Between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., put them in a normal growing area to get sufficient light.

November

• Buy spring bulbs such as tulips and refrigerate them for eight weeks. This will help meet their chilling requirements to produce blooms in spring.

• Watch for brown patch fungus disease in lawns if the weather is rainy. (See September listing.)

• Plant strawberries before mid-November. (See October listing.)

• In dry weather, water the lawn to keep it healthy during the winter. During cool or cold weather, a lawn needs to be watered no more than once per week with 3/4 inch of water and shrubs every two to three weeks. New water guidelines for one day a week irrigation start the first Sunday in November. Odd-numbered addresses and no addresses can water on Saturday, even addresses on Sunday and nonresidential on Tuesday. If rainfall is sufficient, cut the system off.

• Plan how you will protect lawns and landscape plants from cold temperatures. Lawns and shrubbery should be watered 24 to 48 hours before the freeze occurs for best cold protection. (See January listing.)

• Those who planted rye grass but did not fertilize it when planted can apply some 16-4-8 or 16-0-16 fertilizer now at a rate of 3 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of lawn to give the grass a dark green color.

December

• If rainfall amounts are high and temperatures are mild, watch for brown patch fungus disease in lawns. (See September listing.)

• Have soil tested for a spring lawn or garden. Testing every three to four years usually is enough to tell if lime is needed. A good sample should be taken from the top 3 or 4 inches of soil in eight to 10 areas. Put it all together in a large bucket and mix it up well. Take 1 pint of this soil to a county extension office. This sample will give an overall view of what your lawn and garden needs.

• Late December is the ideal time to begin transplanting plants if the weather has turned cool. If there hasn’t been much cold weather, do not begin transplanting until the plants are dormant. Prune roots four to six weeks before digging by severing roots with a spade just inside the root ball to generate new root hairs and reduce transplant shock. Be sure to keep plants out of the ground for as little time as possible. (See January listing.)

• During dry weather even if lawns are dormant, water may be needed prior to a freeze if the weather is dry. (See November for cool season irrigation rates.)

Magazine: Jacobsen AR522 for Wentworth Woodhouse Country House South Yorkshire

2009-12-19T18:50:00.000-08:00

By Peter Driver in Industry on 19th Dec 2009 11:00

Golf and Turf Equipment, Ransomes Jacobsen's dealer for Yorkshire, has delivered a Jacobsen AR522 five deck rotary mower to maintain the grassed areas at Wentworth Woodhouse, a Grade 1 listed country house close to the village of Wentworth, near Rotherham in South Yorkshire.

The house, which has 240 rooms, the longest façade in Europe at 185 metres and covers an area of over 2.5 acres, is surrounded by a 150 acre park and a 90,000-acre estate, which is now separately owned.

Scott Jamieson has been the Head Gardener at Wentworth Woodhouse for the past five years and is responsible for 80 acres of lawn and grassed areas around the house. A former greenkeeper who worked at Letham Grange in Scotland and at La Rovedine, a nine-hole municipal course on the outskirts of Milan, he is an advocate of the AR522.

"We used to cut the lawns with a tractor and gang mowers," he said, "but it was a very heavy combination and we couldn't get out when it was wet. Cutting along fence lines was also difficult due to poor visibility of the outside gang units. With the AR522 all this is a thing of the past; we can go out in most weathers and achieve an excellent standard of cut. You have a good view from the operator platform, which enables us to get up close to the fence lines and that reduces the amount of remedial strimming we have to do.

"Adjusting the height of cut is simple and can be done quickly and the five cutting decks can be converted from mulching to rear discharge in minutes. Manoeuvrability is good and it will go anywhere. Presentation is all important here and the heavy rollers on the decks give us really good finish. It's highly productive, I can cut 40 acres in a day and a half and that includes around trees and other obstacles. It really is a very good machine; I just wish I'd had one when I was a greenkeeper."

Wentworth Woodhouse was built by Thomas Watson-Wentworth in the 1720s and in the nineteenth century it became the inherited family seat of the Earls Fitzwilliam. The present owner is Clifford Newbold, an architect from Highgate, who purchased the house in 1999.

Master Gardener: How to replace that not-so-green lawn

2009-11-19T23:28:00.000-08:00

By Rebecca Jepsen
for the Mercury News
Posted: 11/13/2009 12:00:00 AM PST
Updated: 11/13/2009 12:43:52 PM PST

Conserving water is becoming increasingly important as we enter our fourth year of drought in Santa Clara County.
There is also a lot of buzz about water-wise gardening, xeriscaping and environmental responsibility. According to Kevin Galvin, senior water conservation specialist with the Santa Clara Valley Water District, more than half of our residential water is used on landscaping, and the runoff of toxic chemicals and fertilizers into our water system is very high.
We Americans love our lawns, and although that perfectly mowed, lush green lawn is the epitome of beauty for many homeowners, it has many inherent costs. We spend money to purchase and maintain our mowers, edgers and blowers, not to mention the fuel required to run them. The environmental cost of toxic emissions emitted by the equipment also needs to be considered.
According to the Save20 gallons.org Web site, we can save 20 gallons of water a day by replacing just 1,000 square feet of lawn with better, water-wise options.
Fall is the best time to replace your lawn, but before you embark on removing your lawn, it's helpful to know what you are working with. Some lawns are easier to get rid of than others.
Sheet mulching, or smothering, the lawn is effective for most types of turf. Apply a layer of cardboard or newspaper over your lawn (being sure to generously overlap the edges) and cover with a three-to-four-inch layer of mulch.
If, like many homeowners, you have Bermuda grass, you may need to take more drastic measures. Use a sod cutter, which will cut the Bermuda grass roots at approximately three inches or more, flip the cut sections over to let them die off. You may need to sod cut repeatedly to completely eradicate Bermuda grass.
John Greenlee, a California nurseryman and an expert on ornamental grasses and sedges, says using a "grow and kill" cycle is the most effective way to get rid of existing turf, especially Bermuda grass. Carefully apply Round-up (per instructions) on your healthy lawn, cut all water for a period of one to two weeks. Reapply water and wait for new growth, repeat previous step. You may need to repeat the cycle two or three times, but Greenlee says this is the most efficient method.
There are many water-wise, low maintenance, and beautiful replacement options to consider.
Sedge lawns
Sedge lawns most closely resemble normal turf lawns. With proper selection and planting, a sedge lawn will function much like a traditional lawn, but with a lot less water and mowing. Sedges, part of the Carex genus, come in a variety of sizes from miniature to several feet tall. They can be used in sun or shade and in almost every climate zone.
An excellent option for the Bay Area is the California meadow sedge (Carex pansa). It is a fast-growing variety with dark green foliage that will grow to only about 4 to 6 inches if left unmowed. It can be planted in either full sun or part shade. Plugs can be planted directly into your sheet mulch. Cut holes 6 to 12 inches on center, loosen the roots of the plugs, and add a couple of handfuls of soil (planting mix or top soil) as you go.
With proper irrigation — once a week near the coast; more often in hot climates — your new lawn should fill in within a few months. Once established, it will need to be mowed only about three times per year. However, make sure the blades on your mower are very sharp so you don't damage the plant by fraying its edges.
For shady areas, try Texas sedge (Carex texensis). If you are planting under an oak, leave a 5-to-10-foot radius unplanted to avoid disturbing the root zone of the tree.
Eco-lawns
Ecology lawns or eco-lawns can be planted from seed. They are usually a mixture of native and non-native grasses, herbs and flowers. The exact mix will vary depending on supplier and planting conditions. Eco-lawns grow about four times more slowly than normal turf lawn and therefore require only one-quarter the amount of mowing. Because of their extremely long root system, they need very little water once established and no fertilizer.
Meadow lawns
Meadow lawns not only provide visual diversity year-round, they can also provide much needed habitat for birds, butterflies, bees and bugs. You can create a meadow lawn by planting a mix of native grasses and fescues, yarrow and other wildflowers. They can be planted from seed or plugs. It's important to weed out invasive grasses such as wild oat, Italian rye and foxtails while the meadow gets established. Shady options include: California Fescue (Festuca californica) with wildflowers such as Douglas Iris (Iris douglasiana), Western Hound's Tongue (Cynglossum grande), Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), California poppy and Sky Lupines (Lupinus nanus).
Herb lawns
For a nice-smelling alternative, try planting an herb lawn. Before selecting a variety to use, it's important to consider your planting conditions. For sunny areas try Roman Chamomile, yarrow or Golden or Variegated Oregano. Shade-loving options include Sweet Woodruff or Yerba Buena, which grows naturally under oaks.
Herb lawns can't take heavy foot traffic, so you may want to include steppingstones or create a pathway. Periodic hand-weeding is recommended. Most herb lawns don't need to be mowed; however, you may want to weed-whack the yarrow periodically.
Master Gardener Gretchen Zane contributed to this report. The Santa Clara County Master Gardener Program is a volunteer organization dedicated to providing research-based gardening information to home gardeners. Have a question? Call the hot line, 408-282-3105, from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Or visit the Master Gardeners Web site at www.mastergardeners.org.
GETTING STARTED

Ripping out your entire yard may not be possible or practical; start with a section on your lawn or landscape that is in need of repair and "grow" from there. You may want to experiment with a few varieties to see what you like and what will grow well in your specific environment.
Most of the varieties listed here can be found at Bay Area nurseries: Native Revival (www.nativerevival.com); East Bay Wilds (www.eastbaywilds.com); Rana Creek Nursery (www.ranacreeknursery.com); or online at Greenlee Nursery (www.greenleenursurey.com) or Bay Natives (www.bay
natives.com).
To find out about more ways to save water or to learn about the Landscape Rebate Program, contact the Santa Clara Valley Water District hot line at 408-265-2607, or check www.valleywater.org.

Master Gardeners

2009-11-15T21:56:00.000-08:00

Now that the growing season is over and all of our beds are cleaned up, the plants are mulched, protected and tucked in for the winter, and the irrigation has been blown out, and all of our tools are oiled and hung on their hooks, and the lawn mower and weed eater are winterized and slumbering in the shed -- it's time to think back over last year's efforts and spend a little time reveling in and feeling gratitude for the tremendous blessings that our gardens bring.

In the garden, we function within a system that brings a pure, natural experience. We put our energy into the soil along with our hopes, dreams and a measure of faith that the sun will rise and call the seedling out of the ground, that the rain and snow will provide water, and that the beautiful earth will give sustenance to the seeds we sow.

There is a supreme sweetness in the harvest, whether it be beautiful flowers that please our senses or wholesome sustaining food, when that harvest is full of the energy of the gardener. No rose is so satisfying as the one watched and nurtured from a bud, no lettuce is so crisp and sweet as the leaf that is coaxed from the ground and watered with care.

Life lessons are learned in the garden; patience, diligence, renewal, faithfulness, dependability and hope. Practical knowledge is gained in the garden: when to plant, what to plant, how to feed the soil. And gardening gives us something that is in short supply in our fast-paced world: time to think. We all need time to think and sort out life's issues and challenges. Time in the garden is physically, mentally and spiritually productive.

The generosity of nature teaches us to share with and serve those around us. It is easy to give generously when we reap such a bountiful harvest. It takes little extra time and energy to plant and tend a few extra plants that will go to homeless shelters or food banks or friends and family that we love. Children learn lessons of gratitude and generosity when they participate in family acts of service.

Gardening can be a relationship building activity. Working together as a family in the garden can reinforce bonds and teach character principles. Time to talk to and teach our children can be a rare commodity, making time together in the garden priceless. Many an avid gardener recalls being introduced to the joys of gardening by a beloved grandparent, who pressed a few pumpkin seeds into a chubby little hand and then helped dig a hole. Neighbors become friends while visiting over the garden fence sharing tips and starts.

Then, as if all of these overflowing blessings are not enough, the garden gives to us also the healthy food our bodies need to thrive; vegetables and fruits that sustain us and delight our appetites. What candy has ever been produced that does not hang its simple-sugar head when faced with a raspberry -- plump and juicy with a sweet-tart loveliness that makes us close our eyes and smack our lips. All that and antioxidants, too. Health for our bodies is truly a blessing of the harvest.

Few gardening years pass without challenges. Insects and disease, late frosts, strong winds, hail, early frosts -- what gardener has not experienced these to some measure? Every experience, whether positive or negative, teaches us more about the world and life and ourselves.
YAKIMA HERALD-REPUBLIC

The season of Thanksgiving that we celebrate at this time of the year was born in the garden and in the fields. It grew out of the gratitude a group of people felt for the harvest they knew would sustain them. Today, most of us do not have to depend on our gardens to sustain life -- but time in the garden will always sustain us in other ways as we engage in its rhythmic, seasonal dance.

* Washington State University Extension Master Gardener Program is an organization of trained volunteers dedicated to horticulture and community service. Questions about gardening, landscaping or the program may be directed toward the Master Gardener Clinic by calling 509-574-1600 or visiting the WSU Extension office at 104 N. First St. in Yakima. Classes begin after the first of the year; new volunteers are welcome.

Gardening: Pavement, other hardscape can be 'landscaped' using plants in pots

2009-11-09T17:06:00.000-08:00

Gardening: Pavement, other hardscape can be 'landscaped' using plants in pots

By Tony Tomeo

for Los Gatos Weekly-Times

Posted: 11/09/2009 03:27:14 PM PST

Updated: 11/09/2009 03:27:15 PM PST

In my own garden, I prefer to grow everything in the ground. Pots and planters simply require a little more attention than I want to give them. To me, pots should be reserved mostly for houseplants and bonsai, which are both very different topics from potted plants in the garden. However, I have grown many potted plants in the garden for various reasons.

The main reason in the garden of my former residence is that there was so much pavement. It was all useful pavement, such as driveways and patio space, so none of it should have been removed. Yet, the portions of the large driveway that were not in use at the time were "landscaped" with large plants in large nursery cans. Corners of the patio were similarly landscaped, with nothing actually in the ground. The black vinyl cans were obscured and shaded (to keep them cool) by common iceplant that spilled out onto the pavement.

Each group of potted plants looked landscaped, but could be moved out of the way if more paved area was needed. I used large yuccas, dracaenas, New Zealand flax, agaves, cacti and some palms, including a 15-foot windmill palm, because they happened to be available, and actually suited the style of the "landscape."

This technique can be done with all sorts of plants in more appealing pots and containers that do not need to be obscured. Thin plastic pots or metallic planters that get warm from direct exposure to sunlight may be more comfortable to the plants within if at least partially shaded by overhanging foliage toward the south and west.

Such a landscape does not need to be very elaborate to be effective. Sometimes, only a few potted plants are enough to dress up a large patio, and can also be moved out of the way for entertaining. Potted plants can also be appealing on porches or balconies where there is no exposed soil.

There are other advantages to the portability of potted plants. Those that are sensitive to frost, such as banana trees and jade plants, can be moved to sheltered areas when the weather gets too cool. Plants like hydrangeas and orchids can be moved to more prominent locations while they are in bloom, and then moved out of the way while they are dormant or simply not blooming.

Potted small trees like fullmoon maple, Japanese maple, vine maple, citrus, sweet bay and some podocarpus have appealing form, and the maples also have intricate foliar texture. Shrubs like aucuba, escallonia, boxwood, privet, tobira and holly provide more substance. Shrubby bougainvilleas, angel's trumpet, camellia and hydrangea produce colorful flowers. Japanese aralia and Heavenly bamboo display boldly interesting foliar texture.

Tree of the Week: Lemon Bottlebrush Like junipers, ivies, eucalypti and many other plants that were too common in the past, lemon bottlebrush, Callistemon citrinus, has lost popularity over the years, and now seems to be known for its bad qualities.

I sometimes find its abundant pollen and the lemony aroma of its foliage to be objectionable, even though I am not quite convinced that it smells like lemons, but I also appreciate its attributes. Hummingbirds appreciate the nectar provided by its bright red flowers that bloom in random phases at any time of year. Other birds appreciate its shaggy bark that they use to build nests.

Once established, lemon bottlebrush does not need much attention. It wastes no time growing into a small tree or large shrub more than 10 feet tall and wide. As a tree, it can be staked and pruned to develop a single straight trunk, or allowed to develop multiple sculptural trunks. Shearing prevents bloom, but otherwise does not hurt lemon bottlebrush.

Lemon bottlebrush gets its name from its cylindrical flower clusters that look like bottlebrushes. Each cluster is about 3 to 5 inches long, and contains many densely arranged staminate flowers. (Staminate flowers have prominent stamens, but not petals.) Bronzy and slightly fuzzy new leaves develop at the ends of the flower clusters, and get to be about 2 to 3 inches long and olive green as they mature. Modern varieties with purplish or pink flowers are smaller and denser than the traditional lemon bottlebrush that blooms bright red.

Contact Tony Tomeo or look for specialized gardening information and previous columns at www.AskTonyTheGardener.com.

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2010 Gardening Calendar

BY TERRY BRITE DELVALLE

Magazine: Jacobsen AR522 for Wentworth Woodhouse Country House South Yorkshire

Master Gardener: How to replace that not-so-green lawn

Master Gardeners

Gardening: Pavement, other hardscape can be 'landscaped' using plants in pots

Gardening: Pavement, other hardscape can be 'landscaped' using plants in pots